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 QUESTIONS ABOUT HIRING A CONTRACTOR

QUESTIONS ABOUT PRODUCTS / SERVICES

Do I need a permit?
Most remodeling projects require a permit and work done without one may invalidate some aspects of your homeowner's insurance. When in doubt, contact your local building department.
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What should I look for in a construction contract?
A construction contract protects you. A good contract identifies what will be done, how it will be done, the materials to be used, model numbers, dates and payment schedules.
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Do I need a new roof?
To appraise the quality of your roof, follow this inspection checklist or contact us for a free inspection and estimate.

From the outside: Use a pair of binoculars or stand on a ladder at roof level and look at the overall appearance of your roof. In particular, look for the following indications of potential roof problems:

  • Are there any blistered, curled, or split shingles? A few can be repaired but if the general appearance of the roof is poor, it may be time to reroof.
  • Are there loose or missing shingles or tiles?
  • Do you see any exposed nails? They are a source of leaks.
  • If your roof is covered with composition (asphalt) shingles, look for dark patches indicating the granular coating has worn away.
  • Look for significant accumulation of granules in your rain gutters. Some granules are normal but a lot, combined with dark patches on your shingles, is a sign of an aging roof.
  • Look for sagging along the ridges or in the middle of the roof.
  • Check where ridges and hips meet. Shingles may break or work loose in these spots.
  • Any rusty metal or displaced shingles along the valley are signs of roof weaknesses.
  • Inspect the flashing around plumbing vents and chimneys. Loose shingles or rusty, loose flashing is another sign of trouble. Step flashing around chimneys must be well embedded in the mortar between bricks.
  • Where a vertical side of the house meets the roof such as along dormer walls, flashing should be firmly in place or it is a potential leak.
  • Check the gutters closely for sagging and signs of leaks between sections. Are the downspouts firmly in place and directing water away from the house foundation?
  • If you have a shake or shingle roof, inspect the flashing around chimneys and vertical walls carefully because acid in the wood can eat away at the flashing over the years. In consistently moist areas, prevent mildew by regularly removing wet leaves that collect in certain parts of the roof.

From the inside:

  • In the attic, look for signs of leaks. Dark stains on the rafters or the underside of the roof decking material generally indicate water trails. Look for water signs around plumbing vent pipes and along chimneys, skylights, and valleys.
  • If you find dark spots, see if they are still wet or are old. Push a sharp screwdriver into the wood. If it is soft, it's a sign of rot. If the wood is stained but still dry and firm during your rainy season, it may be an old leak that has been repaired.
  • Look up through the roof for any pinpoints of light. If you find one, run a thin length of wire up through it so you can find it on the roof. Do not widen the hole. Shake roofs in particular may show daylight during the summer months, but the wood will swell shut again with the first rains.
  • Look for sagging sheathing between rafters. This is one sign of an old roof in need of repair. Sagging or cracked rafters will certainly require repair or replacement as part of a new roof installation.

Flat Roof:

  • Look for any blisters on the roof. If not already broken, blisters eventually will break, which may allow water to enter the roof. If you find any blisters, slit them with a knife and then coat with asphalt roofing patch material commonly known as roofing cement.
  • Look for depressions around vent pipes where water can collect and begin leaking through cracks in the surface. Fill them with roofing cement.
  • Check all flashing for any separations by the parapet that rings the flat roof.
  • Clean drains at the low end of the roof so that water can run off without interruption.

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What are cedar shakes and shingles?
In the Pacific Northwest, old-growth cedar was hand split to create evenly patterned, vertical-grain shakes. Many of these roofs lasted 30 years or more, establishing cedar's reputation as a fine-quality roofing product. Such roofs are still possible today but require extremely careful selection of material and high quality workmanship. One of the drawbacks of cedar, flammability, can be overcome with chemical treatment. Quality cedar can also be factory treated for wood rot. In order to get the maximum amount of use out of an untreated cedar shake roof, it is important to have the roof treated with a wood preservative (performed by a specialty contractor). Most cedar roofs can be cleaned and treated without pressure washing which can damage cedar roofing.
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What is a composition roof?
The newest of these roofs have fiberglass reinforcing mesh in the material and comes in a variety of colors, designs and qualities. It is not unusual to see a 25-year old composition roof in good condition, even though the original warranty was for 15 years. The most frequent problems associated with these roofs are related to inadequate venting, poor flashing, and damage from moss buildup. Methods to deal with these problems are mandatory in the proper installation of this and every other type of roofing. A properly installed composition roof requires very little maintenance other than a periodic visual inspection. The best way to inspect such a roof is with a good set of binoculars. Walking on a composition roof for the purpose of inspection should be kept to a minimum - good advice for all types of roofs. Composition roofs should be cleaned with a pressure washer.
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Are metal roofs noisy?
Metal roofs are becoming very popular, not only because of their improved quality but also because they can provide a new spectrum of colors, clean lines and an alternative to traditional materials for low-pitched roofs. Does rain make more noise on metal roofs? Depends on who you ask and how the roof was installed. Typically the metal roofing is installed over solid sheeting of plywood or oriented strand board. This application reduces any noise problems from the roof while adding strength and longevity. The better quality metal roofs are called Standing Seam metal roofs and are designed in such a way as to hide all of the fasteners which attach the roof to the sheathing. This also gives the roof a very clean line and a very modern architectural look.
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What materials are used on pitched roofs?
Pitched or sloped roofs range from a moderately sloped 3-in-12 pitch to the 45-degree angle 12-in12 slope commonly seen on A-frame roofs. Even steeper are many mansard roofs and parts of gambrel roofs, such as on barns, which may have 20-in12 pitches. Roofing material for pitched roofs include the following:

Composition shingles: Generically called asphalt shingles, these cover 70% of all roofs in this country. Composition shingles are divided into two types, organic or fiberglass. Organic composition roofs are manufactured with a cellulose fiber base made from recycled paper and wood fibers. This base is then saturated with asphalt and given a mineral coating on one side to resist weathering. Fiberglass shingles are made in a similar fashion but the central core is fiberglass, which is more flexible and stronger than the cellulose materials. Composition shingles are manufactured in a wide variety of colors and are rated by their projected life expectancy, typically 20, 25, and 30 years. Most roofing manufacturers warranty their roofs for these periods, but only if their certified roofers install them. Otherwise, the manufacturers disallow any guarantees.

Dimensional shingles: These are made from the same material as organic or fiberglass composition shingles but are much thicker. The additional layers may be sculpted to provide attractive shadow lines that give the roof a customized appearance. The extra thickness also increases their life expectancy, up to 40 years. As with composition shingles, the manufacturer's warranty generally applies only if one of their certified roofers installs the material.

Wood shingles: Shingles are commonly sawn from Western red cedar, chosen for its natural resistance to decay. Shingles are sold as No. 1, 2, or 3. Use only No. 1 for roofing because it is cut from knot-free heartwood. No. 2, from less resistant sapwood, is acceptable for siding. Shingles come in 16-, 18-, and 24-inch lengths and are sold in bundles, with four bundles to a square (100 square feet).

Wood Shakes: Like shingles, shakes are mostly cut from cedar logs. Shakes are either resawn or hand-split. A resawn shake has one side sawn to give it a more precise taper while leaving the exposed side with the typical irregular shake appearance. Hand-split shakes are more irregular but still tapered. Shakes are graded by weight: heavy or medium. They are sold in 18- or 24-inch lengths, with five bundles of 24-inch shakes covering 100 square feet with a 10-inch exposure. Most communities now require that roofing shakes or shingles be pressure-treated with a fire retardant prior to installation. Check your local codes if considering such a roof.

Tile roofs: The familiar Spanish or mission tiles are commonly made from clay or concrete. Tile shapes include the half-barrel, S-shape, interlocking, and flat. Although tiles have a life span of 50 to 100 years, they are heavy and can only be applied to roofs constructed to support such weight. Tiles are usually fitted on spaced 2-by-6 boards nailed to solid plywood roof sheathing. For steep slopes, code may require that the tiles be nailed in place through predrilled holes or supported with metal brackets.

Aluminum shingles: Aluminum shingles are available in styles that range from imitation cedar shakes to those with baked enamel colors such as red, green, black, and white. Aluminum shingles have an interlocking nailing flange on the sides so nails do not penetrate the shingle itself. They are light, weighing less than 50 pounds per square, compared to more than 300 pounds per square for average composition shingles.

Copper shingles: These shingles are manufactured in a manner similar to the aluminum shingles, including the same type of interlocking nailing fins. Copper is heavier; approximately 100 pounds to the square.

Slate: One of the oldest roofing materials around, slate is both beautiful and expensive. The best U.S. slate is made in Vermont and comes in a variety of colors. With proper maintenance, Vermont slate roofs last 100 years or more. Another key source of slate is Pennsylvania, but that slate is not as hard or as long lasting. Because of its weight, slate can be applied only to roofs built for that purpose. The material will crack easily if stepped on.

Synthetic slate: Some synthetic slate is made from fiber cement and is not recommended by the manufacturers for application in freeze-thaw climates. The fibers in fiber cement roofing products are comprised of wood or cellulose and in some cases there have been allegations that the fibers can absorb water, which may lead to roof failure. Another synthetic slate is made from ceramic tile that is lighter than real slate and not as fragile yet is highly fire resistant.

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What are my choices for a flat roof?
Flat roof are common in areas with little rainfall or snow and on industrial buildings with wide roof spans.

Tar and gravel roof: Also known as the built-up roof, it is used primarily on flat roofs up to a 3-in-12 pitch. Even flat roofs are sloped somewhat to prevent water from ponding. Tar and gravel roofs are constructed from alternating layers of heavy roofing felt and hot asphalt or tar and finished with a protective mineral coat, such as gravel or mica. The roofs are rated by how many layers are installed, usually from three to five.

Modified bitumen roofing: This type of roofing combines many of the features in the standard tar and gravel roof with the addition of layers of polyester or fiberglass impregnated with bitumen, a derivative of tar or asphalt. The roofing is put down in multiple plies, or layers, and gains significant strength and resistance to weathering by adding the polyester membranes. Other bitumen modifier agents that enhance asphalt's qualities include atactic polypropylene (APP) and styrene butadiene styrene (SBS).

EPDM rubber roofing: Originally for commercial use, it is gaining popularity as a long-lasting roofing material for flat and low-slope residential roofs. The initials stand for ethylene propylene diene monomer, which is used to create the single-ply rubberized roof. It is UV resistant and does not require a mineral coating when completed, thus making it lighter than tar and gravel. It comes in two thicknesses, 45 millimeters and 60 millimeters. A common underlayment for this roof is rigid insulation on the roof deck.

Roll roofing: Commonly used for sheds or inexpensive roofs, it is low-cost roofing material with a short life. It is generically known as 90-pound felt because one roll, which covers 100 square feet, weighs 90 pounds. Although it is mineral-surfaced and made from the same material as asphalt shingles, it has a life expectancy of 10 years or less because it is only one layer deep. Shingles last longer because the manner in which they are overlapped makes them three layers deep.

Roofing felt: Technically, roofing felt is roll roofing, but it is never used by itself as a roofing material. Although water resistant, it is thin and tears easily. Made of asphalt-impregnated felt, it is used as an underlayment between the roof deck and the roofing material. It is sold as 15-pound or 30-pound felt, a figure that represents the weight of one square (100 square feet) of the material. It is sold in rolls 36 inches wide that cover either two or four squares. When using roofing felt, it is important to roll it out flat and smooth. Any wrinkles and bumps may show through after asphalt shingles are installed.

Metal roofs: Metal roofs have been around for years, particularly the old corrugated tin common on farm buildings around the country. More recently, the standing seam metal roofs in a variety of colors can be seen on even high-end houses. Metal roof panels also can be used on nearly flat roofs, with at least 2-in-12 pitch. One drawback is that metal roofs conduct heat so effectively, which can radiate into the areas below unless well insulated.

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Should I have a slate roof installed?
The slate roof is in a class by itself. As with yachts, if you have to ask the price.... But even here one needs to be careful. Not all slate will last in this climate. Vermont slate seems to be the best choice, and some imported Chinese slates are the worst. If you install a good slate roof, the best maintenance is to leave it alone for the first 75 years.
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What are those ugly black streaks on roofs?
Damp, humid climates can encourage the growth of fungus on asphalt shingles. The result is unsightly green and black streaks that are especially noticeable on light-colored roofs. But, there is hope! You can use shingles that are "fungus resistant". Shingles become fungus resistant with the addition of copper granules to the shingle surface.
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What is the purpose of ventilation?
This is the most neglected aspect of roofing and most houses are grossly under vented. This will cause the life of your roof to be shortened dramatically and can lead to dry rot and material cupping or curling. Simply put, the purpose of ventilation is to reduce summer heat and moisture from the attic and rafter spaces. The uniform building code requires, and most manufacturers recommend, a minimum of one square foot of venting for every one hundred fifty square feet of ceiling space. Fifty percent of that amount must be in the form of high vents, located near or at the ridge of the house. The balance can be in lower areas, such as the soffits. The vents should be equally distributed so as to provide for proper venting to all portions of the roof.

A proper roof venting system allows for a continuous air flow between the low (soffit) vents and the ridge vents. The air flow is "powered" by convection (i.e., the warmer air will rise and escape out of the high vents and 'pull' cooler and dryer air from the low vents). This works equally well in high summer temperatures and low winter temperatures. This is a natural process; it does not require any sophisticated controls or the use of electrical energy.

With the introduction of the many types of ridge vents available today, the need for a series of flat mushroom-like structures on the roof is eliminated. In addition, ridge venting is used most effectively to vent structures with cathedral ceilings, which require venting at each of the rafter spaces.
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What types of vents are available?

Soffit vents: These vents are installed in the soffit (the enclosed portion under the roof overhang) and permit air to flow up under the roof and into the attic. They range in style from 6-inch round stainless steel vent covers that are placed in the soffit between each rafter to continuous vents that run the entire length of the soffit.

Ridge vents: These vents run the length of the ridge and replace the ridge shingles or tiles. They are designed with interior baffles that permit air to flow out but prevent rain from blowing in.

Turbine vents: Common on many roofs, the vent top spins on ball bearings. The slightest wind turns the vent, which in turn draws air from the attic.

Eyebrow vents: Also called turtle vents, they provide curved openings on roof slopes. They should be used in pairs with one on each side of the roof to facilitate air movement.

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Why install a skylight?
Today's factory-built skylights and associated flashing systems are an excellent way to add light and venting to the home. For best results, skylights are installed with the first roofing layer. Such installation should be coordinated between a carpenter and a roofer. An operable skylight can be used to vent the home. It is often used as a substitute for any mechanical air conditioning system. For venting purposes, such a skylight is ideally located on the north or east side of the home, away from the prevailing winds and rain pattern. Many manufactured skylight systems are available with insect screens, shading systems and various methods of operation, including remote control electrical devices.
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When is the best time to perform chimney repairs?
Just before the installation of a new roof. Repair work should be performed by an experienced chimney mason and coordinated with the roofing contractor. Special attention should be given to the installation of a proper flashing system, a process that requires the work of both the chimney mason and the roofing contractor.
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I've got a brick chimney. Does it really need reflashing?
Some roofing contractors will not reflash the chimney unless it is specified in the contract. It is time consuming work and takes a high degree of skill to flash a chimney properly. The truth is that if the chimney is not reflashed when the roof is installed, the chances of the chimney leaking within the next 3-5 years are very high! If you're going to make the investment of getting a new roof system installed on your home, ensure that it will keep you dry for years down the road. Make sure that the contractor has specified that the chimney will be reflashed.
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Do I need gutters and downspouts?
Some roofing systems such as hot tar or torch-down flat roofs may not require separate gutters however, almost all roofs require downspouts and a proper drain system, which takes the water from the roof away from the foundation of the house. Types of gutters include:

Seamless aluminum: These are among the best because they require no painting, as galvanized gutters do, and do not crack or bend, as vinyl gutters do. After the installer measures your roof perimeter, aluminum is fed from a spool into a special machine that extrudes the gutters on the spot. Despite the name, these gutters are not entirely seamless, but only have them at inside and outside corners.

Galvanized tin: Among the most widely used of all gutters, galvanized tin has been around for years. Its only drawback is that is must be painted periodically to prevent rust from penetrating the galvanized coating. The gutters are stiff and strong and hold up well in areas with heavy snowfall.

Vinyl: These gutters are the easiest for the do-it-yourselfers. They are sold at all large home centers, are light and easy to put up. They usually come in just brown or white colors. Although easy to install, they do not have the look of permanency of metal gutters and are subject to distortion from heat and cold.

Wood: Although sometimes still found on old houses, wood gutters today are a custom design. They can be beautiful and long lasting with proper care, which means regular cleaning and painting.

Copper: These are also custom gutters, but beautiful and long lasting.

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What kind of maintenance do my gutters need?

  • Over the years, gutter supports become loose, rusted, and broken. Check them periodically and replace or repair as necessary.
  • Be sure to clean leaves and debris from the gutters each fall before the rains / snow begins.
  • Check that the downspouts are clear. If not, blast the debris out with a hose stream, or use a plumbing snake.
  • Check during a rain for any leaks at the gutter joints. A bead of caulk will often be enough to seal the leak.
  • Use leaf guards on the gutters to prevent accumulation. Use strainers over the downspout holes. These can be made from a short strip of rolled chicken wire that is inserted into the downspout hole.

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How much insulation do I need?
Insulation is part of the whole roof system, and is designed to prevent both cold and heat from entering the house. Insulation is rated by R factors, which is a measurement of resistance to heat flow. Heat is energy and it always moves toward cooler areas - out of the house in winter, into the house in summer.

The temperature in a well-ventilated attic ideally should only be a few degrees different than the outside temperature. Therefore, to protect the house, the first place to install insulation in an attic is between ceiling joists. If using batts, place the paper or vapor retarder side against the ceiling to resist the movement of water vapor. If using loose fill, a vapor retarder ideally should have been placed over the bottom of the ceiling joists before the drywall was installed. Be sure that insulation between ceiling joists does not block any soffit vents. If your house has them, keep the insulation about a foot short of the connection between roof and wall to permit free air movement.

If it's in your budget, you can then place insulation batts between the roof rafters and the walls, but that will have considerably less impact on protecting the house than putting insulation between ceiling joists.

If you have a cathedral ceiling with little room for standard insulation without blocking air movement, then use baffles to create a space between the roof deck and the insulation. If your cathedral ceiling is formed by tongue and groove lumber on top of rafter beams, you can also use rigid insulation on top of the roof deck, under the roof covering.
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How do I control moss?
It is possible to prevent or at least reduce the amount of moss on a roof by installing a zinc strip under the edge of the ridge cap on the roof. It is also possible to buy some composition roofing materials with zinc granules compressed into the shingles. The presence of zinc (or copper) on the roof changes the chemical composition of the rain water flowing onto the shingles. This change in the composition of the water reduces the likelihood of the growth of moss, lichens, and similar organisms on the roof surface. Where moss has already started to grow on the roof, it is necessary to treat the moss with commercially available liquids or granules which are specifically formulated for the control of moss on roofs. Some, but not all, of these products are quite toxic and require careful attention to application instructions. Even the best products may require more than one application. Depending on the roofing material and location of the structure, your roof may require annual reapplication in order to keep the moss problem under control. Once the moss has been killed (usually takes a few weeks), it is possible to use a soft broom to sweep the dead moss from the roof. However, the removal of the dead moss is not nearly as important as killing the moss.
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© Copyright 2004-2006 by Absolute Roofing, Inc., Cleveland, Ohio U.S.A.